Two Alternate Routes to the Trans Canada Trail for Equestrians (and Backcountry Hikers) in the Cascades: Chilliwack/Hope to Coalmont/Tulameen

Two Alternate Routes to the Trans Canada Trail for Equestrians (and Backcountry Hikers) in the Cascades: Chilliwack/Hope to Coalmont/Tulameen

This will be a rewarding experience for those of you who are experienced with the backcountry. At this time, the trail takes in quite a bit of roadway.  Even if there are efforts being made to take this whole trail off Ministry of Highways roads (about 13 km at this time), the route will likely always include a substantial amount of former Forest Service Roads and a few active ones.

These alternatives to the main route of the TCT give options to equestrians and hikers only.  Because of high elevations, the season for these trails starts at about the second week in July to about the second week in October.  The trip from Chilliwack Lake is between 5 to 7 days of wilderness and alpine trekking. Chilliwack Lake Provincial Campground to Coalmont is about 126 km via Paleface Pass and about 120 km via Greendrop Lake.  Subtract 10 km if you don’t take the Granite Mountain route.  Support with vehicles can be provided along the Silver Skagit Rd (Upper Silverhope and Skagit River trailheads) and Highway 3 (Sumalo and Cascade trailheads).  4W drives can make it to Lodestone Lake from Coalmont but beyond that, it may not be possible.  While there are campgrounds along the way, be prepared for wilderness camping.

Generally, hikers have three options from Chilliwack to Coalmont on the KVR:

  • Go over Paleface Pass and follow the main TCT route described in Chilliwack-Silverhope to Hope (note that cyclists are recommended to take a different option via Hwy 7 to Hope from Chilliwack)
  • Go over Paleface Pass and head for Coalmont via the Skagit and Cascade Trails
  • Take the Centennial Trail via Greendrop and Hicks Creek and head for Coalmont via the Skagit and Cascade Trails.
    • This route offers camping at Lindeman and Greendrop Lakes in the Pass.  Both these Lakes are in the Chilliwack Lake Provincial Park.  The lakes themselves are quite beautiful, especially Greendrop Lake viewed from the trail above the lake.
    • At the east end of Greendrop Lake is the start of the Hicks Creek FSR trail.  Unfortunately, the top part of this FSR has been decommissioned for 7 km and as of 2014 it has become impassable.  Hence it would be quite a slog for 7 kilometers.  Watch for a TCT sign going south about 1 km before reaching the Silver Skagit Road.

Equestrians really only have one option and that is to go over Paleface Pass and head for Coalmont via the Skagit and Cascade Trails.

Cathedral Provincial Park – hiking loops

Cathedral Provincial Park – hiking loops

The extraordinary Cathedral Provincial Park owes its name to sensational mountain peaks that reach over 2600m/8,500 ft around a bowl in the Cascade Mountains just north of the U.S.A. border.

The majority of people visit the park by either camping or booking a room at the Cathedral Lakes Provincial Lodge.  In either case, the best way to access the area is by booking a shuttle with the lodge.

Suggested time: 2 half days and 2 full days (3 nights) allowing to arrive on the 10:00 a.m. shuttle and leaving on the 3:00 p.m. shuttle.

The general location of the park is 22 km out of Keremeos on the south side of the Similkameen River.  Here it is as described in Wikipedia:
Cathedral Provincial Park and Protected Area, usually known as Cathedral Provincial Park and also as Cathedral Park, is a provincial park in British Columbia, Canada. It is located east of E.C. Manning Provincial Park, south of BC Highway 3, and southeast of the town of Princeton and southwest of Keremeos. Its southern boundary is the border with the United States. Much of the park is the basin of the Ashnola River.

Suggested Hiking Itinerary

Diamond Loop (including Scout Lake) – half day (following the 10:00 a.m. shuttle  – 8.8 km counter clockwise

Rim Trail Loop via Diamond Trail Loop junction, to Red Mt, Quiniscoe Mt, Pyramid Mt., Devils Wood Pile, Smokey the Bear/Giant Cleft, Lady Slipper Lake and back to Lodge- Full day about 7.5 to 8.5 hrs (counter clockwise) – 16 km

Goat Lake via Box Car Mt. and Lakeview Mtn. Loop – Full Day – approx. 14 km (optional – if staying for 2 nights only you may wish to forego this hike.

Lake of the Woods, Pyramid Lake, Glacier Lake and Quiniscoe Lake (including falls) Loops – half day, 8-km – clockwise – take the 3:00 p.m. shuttle out

The complete Centennial Trail through the Park is much longer as is the trail taking in Haystack Mt. These are  multi-day back packing hikes.

North Coast Hiking Trail (79 km)

North Coast Hiking Trail (79 km)

The North Coast Trail is a 43.1 km extension to the original Cape Scott trail. Yet, when combined with a round trip to/from the Cape Scott Lighthouse, and the trip south to the San Josef staging area, the trip totals nearly 80 km. The minimum recommended one way hiking time is 5 days; although, it is more commonly completed in 6 to 8 days. Hiking times are estimated for the average hiker in good physical condition in optimal weather conditions. The trail became operational in 2008.

This is a very challenging route and is not recommended for inexperienced hikers. Many sections require hikers to climb over or along fallen trees, to cross through deep mud, and to use fixed ropes to climb up and over steep sections. It is not recommended for those with a fear of heights. Consider hiking sections of the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail or the Cape Scott Trail to Nels Bight prior to attempting a trip to the North Coast Trail.

The North Coast Trail is not recommended for dogs. There are many steep headland sections on the trail with extensive rope work. These sections are not suitable for domestic animals.

The trail is located in a wilderness area with minimal supplies or equipment of any kind. It is not regularly patrolled, so hikers should be completely self sufficient.  It is strongly recommended that ALL hikers carry a satellite phone or VHF radio in case of emergency. Cell phones do not work in the park, and assistance may be days away in case of an accident.

The trail runs along the northern end of Vancouver Island spanning Cape Scott Provincial Park. It can be traversed east to west from Shushartie Bay to the eastern end of Nissen Bight or in reverse from west to east. The trail becomes progressively easier in the east to west direction. Access to the Shushartie Bay trailhead is by boat or floatplane only. There are currently no docking facilities. One water taxi service runs from Port Hardy during the summer season. Access to the western portion of the trail is from the San Josef parking lot at the Cape Scott trailhead. Shuttle service to the parking lot can also be arranged in Port Hardy.

There is a fee for backcountry camping along the trail. Review the fees and make a reservation using BC Parks’ web site. See the link below.

Here’s a video from Karysa and Jackie from their journey along the trail in 2017:

North Coast Trail & Cape Scott Provincial Park (Karysa and Jackie – Our Loveland) from Karysa Brossoit on Vimeo.

Juan de Fuca Marine Hiking Trail

Juan de Fuca Marine Hiking Trail

Juan de Fuca Provincial Park on the west coast of southern Vancouver Island offers scenic beauty, spectacular hiking, marine and wildlife viewing and roaring surf in its course along the Pacific coastline of the Strait of Juan de Fuca. A major feature of this park, the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail, is approximately 42 kilometres of wilderness trekking along the rugged shoreline. Although most of the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail is designed for strenuous day or multi-day hiking/camping in this rugged and isolated area, some easy to moderate day hiking opportunities to the beach or along the trail are available starting from the trailheads.

The hike normally takes 3-4 days. There are no services along the route – travellers should come prepared for the remote experience. Backcountry passes for camping must be purchased from BC Parks. A shuttle service to/from Port Renfrew and China Beach (as well as Victoria) is available during the summer months (see “Transportation” below).

A common question hikers ponder is, “Which direction should I do the hike?”

There isn’t a simple answer – since the trail starts and ends at the same elevation, either direction could be considered equally challenging. Hikers may decide based on the following (in order of priority):
  1. Transportation logistics (how are you getting to the trailhead? Will you be leaving a car, or relying on meeting a bus at the other end?)
  2. Tidal cut offs and beach walking (it is essential to plan ahead for some of the high-tide beach cutoffs – will you direction of travel mean that you will encounter the cut-offs at high tide or low tide? Generally, in the summer months, lowest tides are in the morning and come up through the day)
  3. Seeing Botanical beach at low tide is nice (will you encounter it at the start – or later in the day if you are finishing there?)
  4. The dreaded “Bear Beach – Chin Beach” section. It really shouldn’t play as large a role as many people give it, but it’s indeed the most challenging section – do you prefer to get it over with earlier? Or wait until your pack is lighter? A tip would be to do it at the beginning of the day, rather the end. But the items above should probably play a larger role in your decision)
Breakdown of the hike, including approximate times (from west to east):
The following times are based on a moderately quick pace with minimal breaks. You know your pace – add on time if needed!
  • Botanical beach to Payzant: 2.5 hrs, 7 km. Moderate difficulty but trail condition is generally well worn and easy to follow. Take some extra time to explore; there are lots of shoreline options, but you might reach an impassible surge channel and be forced to bushwack to regain the official trail. Aim for doing this section at low tide – and it is best to not do this alone!
  • Payzant Campground: In forest, but good tent sites, pretty river and waterfall, not much of a view but nice afternoon light.
  • Payzant to Parkinson trailhead: 1 hr, 3 km. Conditions are moderately difficult.
  • Parkinson to Little Kuitshie: 1 hr, 4 km. Very muddy!
  • Little Kuitshie Campground: Unimpressive; probably the least charming of all campsites along the trail. Dark, dank forest. Possible hikes towards shoreline access.
  • Little Kuitshie to Sombrio (West): 1.5 hrs, 4 km. Moderate difficulty – a little up and down but good conditions. Note high tide beach cut offs!
  • Sombrio Breach Campground: There are 3 areas..
    • Sombrio Campsite (“West” – west bank of river): Wooden platforms (could be considered good or bad!), lots of day users.
    • Sombrio Campsite (“Centre” – just east of river): Can be a busy place with day users but great sites, possibility of grass set up.
    • Sombrio Campsite (“East” – around the corner in the next bay): Quiet, sand sites. Recommended. Hidden waterfall (halfway between the bear cache/outhouse and about 20 metres west from where the trail leaves the beach to climb uphill, there is a little unassuming creek that flows onto the beach and dissolves into the sand (48.4935° -124.2947°) – follow the path up the river!). Also, interesting rock formations/collapsed seacave at eastern end of beach (48.4921° -124.2935°).
  • Sombrio West to Sombrio East: 0.5 hr, 2 km. Beach walking
  • Sombrio East to Sombrio Point: 0.5 hr, 1 km. Quite difficult! Travellers heading west might feel discouraged as they can see Sombrio but face tricky terrain and mud! Hang in there!
  • Sombrio Point to Loss Creek Bridge: 1 hr, 2 km. Big elevation gain to an old logging road (nice and flat!), then drop. But the ascent/descent is not too steep. Take your time and enjoy some large trees.
  • Loss Creek Bridge to Chin Beach: 1 hr, 3 km. Moderate difficulty overall and enjoyable. The last bit of trail into Chin cannot be hiked at high tide – there is no alternate!
  • Chin Beach Campground: Very nice campsite, not too many sites, but outlook and beach is nice and sites are tucked in trees. Possible hike to see large trees – uphill of campsite and shelter, possible loop. Do note beach cut offs at high tide!
  • Chin to Bear: 3.5 hrs, 12 km. This section is the most difficult with lots of elevation change – but all elevation changes are 70 metres or less, except for Hoard Creek which is 100 m.
  • Bear Beach campground: Westernmost campsite is lousy (best for overflow), Centre (Clinch creek) sites are lovely (small ravine, cleared sites, shade). East campsite (at Rosemond Creek, past sand bluff) are nice but gets filled up early. This site is also close to breaking waves sometimes, so could feel a little exposed during storms or high winds. A nice waterfall is located just to the east – but the trail goes past it, so everyone gets to see it eventually.
  • Bear Beach to Mystic Beach: 2.5 hrs, 7 km. Plenty of up-and-down, but pleasant forest and well worn trail with not much mud.
  • Mystic Beach Campground: Stunning beach and great walks at low tide, but limited sites and feels exposed when surf is up. Only 2 km from trailhead so lots of day users, but quiets down in afternoon.
  • Mystic Beach to China Beach: 0.5 hr, 2 km. Very easy and straightforward.

Please do make a note of the 6 locations (shown on our map) of “high tide cut offs”. The BC Parks map also includes information on these cut offs. If you arrive to the cut offs and the tide is above the cut off height, you won’t be able to pass. And it’s even possible that you’ll still need to remove your shoes and socks and wade through the water even if you arrive at a tide below the cut off – there may be waves. See our map for details, or the BC Parks map (link below).

Vancouver Island Trail

Vancouver Island Trail

The Vancouver Island Spine Trail is a 700-km proposed wilderness trail that will run from tip-to-tip along the spine of Vancouver Island. The goal of the Vancouver Island Spine Trail Association (VISTA) is to utilize as many existing trails as possible, but they are building new connector trails each summer. There are ample opportunities to volunteer for trail building sessions – please visit their web site for more details.

Since we do not host or update this trail map, we do not offer a GPS download for this trail. Please download the latest copy by opening this map in Google Maps and selecting “Download KML” from the menu.

Note: The map above has been created by VISTA and will automatically update as they make changes to their routes. We cannot guarantee the accuracy of the data! Although some sections of the Spine Trail are complete and operational, many parts are not. Contact VISTA for the latest trail maps and conditions.